What do rhubarb, daffodils and pomegranates have in common? You might be surprised to learn that these natural materials all produce a yellow dye. While there is increasing interest in the processes behind the manufacturing of our clothes, the use of dyes has been relatively overlooked. This raises questions about the sustainability of natural dyes and the role they can play in our appreciation of fashion.
In 1856, while searching for a cure for malaria, William Perkin stumbled upon the first synthetic dye. Before this, the only way to dye fabric was through the use of plant and animal derived dyes. Natural dyes can be produced from plants, bark and even lichens. Hedgerow dyeing referred to the practice of foraging plant material to produce dyes for domestic purposes. This custom faded away with the advent of the industrial revolution and mass production of synthetic dyes.
In parts of the world, natural dyeing traditions are still flourishing. For example, Shibori is an indigo dyeing technique dating back to the eighth century and continues to be popular in Japan. Natural dyes are important in many indigenous cultures, with aboriginal people using them to feel rooted to the earth.
I contacted Natalie Linney, founder of Talie Linseed and Manchester-based textile designer, to find out more about the role natural dyes can play closer to home. Natalie first discovered natural dyes while traveling in Tasmania. On her return to the UK, she reimagined the process for a more urban setting, salvaging unlikely materials including rust and weeds. For Natalie, these ingredients reflect a sense of place, for example using turmeric as a nod to the multicultural context of Manchester.
While the use of natural dyes has not been embraced by mainstream fashion yet, there is growing awareness about the negative impact of synthetic dyes on the environment. The run-off from chemicals is thought to have resulted in some rivers in China turning an unnatural blue, visible even from space. It is estimated that up to 20% of water pollution can be accounted for by textile processing. For people working in the textile factories, there are reportedly higher rates of health problems such as cancer.
The shift towards people seeking more sustainable clothing has sparked a renewal of interest in the use of natural dyes as an alternative. As the dyes come from natural sources, they are not harmful to the environment and any waste is biodegradable. It is even possible to produce dyes from waste materials. Avocado stones can produce a beautiful dye which is millennial pink (of course).
Yet the use of natural dyes in fashion is not black and white. Natalie cautions against holding them up as a simple answer to sustainability challenges. Large volumes of the dye material are needed to achieve the same depth of colour as a synthetic dye. The majority of natural dyes require the use of a mordant which allows the dye to adhere to the fabric. Without this, the colour fades over time which raises questions about the lifespan of naturally dyed clothes. The process also requires high volumes of water which can be problematic from an environmental perspective. These issues mean that natural dyeing would be challenging to implement at scale, though it can certainly play a role in more artisanal production.
The use of natural dyes can still be part of a more considered, conscious approach to fashion. Understanding the processes behind the production of our clothes can give us a newfound appreciation of them and we are less likely to view them as disposable items.
Working with nature means that the results are never exactly the same. Natalie jokes that it’s ‘like Christmas when you unwrap the bundles.’ There is something magical about the transformation process. The recipes and techniques may be ancient, though the results can often be a surprise.
Subtle variations in growing conditions or seasons affect the intensity of the colour. As a dyer, it can teach you to let go of control and surrender to the process. The beauty of natural dyes is that no two pieces are the same: each has its own unique identity and story. Nature has its own beautiful, harmonious palette, meaning that it’s easy to pair naturally dyed fabrics with one another and create different outfits.
So what does the future hold for natural dyes? Some commercial brands are already harnessing the power of natural dyes. The outdoor clothing specialists Patagonia have long pioneered their use though it remains to be seen whether there is a sustainable way to manufacture on a wider scale. Natalie hopes that it will stay small-scale, as mass harvesting could cause unintended issues for the environment. She adds that natural dyes have more of a role to play for small businesses and for individuals looking to give an old item a new lease of life. Natalie is also excited by opportunities for collaborations with other industries using waste materials.
So, understanding more about the process of natural dyeing can help us to re-connect with our clothing and give us a renewed appreciation both of our garments and the materials which produce dyes. I for one will never look at an avocado stone in the same light again.
THANK YOU LOUISE FOR SHARING THIS TOPICAL NEWS STORY WITH US. IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO READ MORE OF LOUISE’S WORK YOU CAN FOLLOW THIS LINK TO HER WEBSITE LOUISEBONDFREELANCEWRITER