Many of us are becoming a lot more conscious about what we buy and who we buy from. Interest in sustainability is on the rise, but navigating the minefield of ‘green’ or ‘ethical’ products is tricky, and knowing who to trust is even harder. There are so many different buzz words being used by companies to promote their sustainability, and while the surge of companies responding to the climate crisis and social issues in the world is largely positive, it makes it difficult to know whether you really are being a responsible consumer or if you’re accidentally buying into greenwashing…
What is Greenwashing?
Greenwashing has been around for a while. The phrase was coined by environmentalist Jay Westerveld back in 1986, and refers to when companies purposefully — or sometimes inadvertently — try to appear more sustainable than they and their products or services actually are. This can be anything from making outright false claims, to being purposefully vague, and is usually intentionally misleading or dishonest but can also be due to ignorance or lack of actual knowledge. Either way, it is a huge problem, particularly in the fashion industry.
Greenwashing might not sound so complex or dangerous, but by overselling the sustainability of products, not only do consumers become increasingly confused, but there is evidence it can foster deep mistrust and could slow down the progress of sustainability efforts overall.
The term Greenwashing typically refers to just environmental issues, but we believe the social side of sustainability to be just as important, and just as easily greenwashed, so have included social considerations in this article.
How to spot it
Based on the ‘Sins of Greenwashing’, a tool developed by TerraChoice in 2007 to help consumers evaluate product sustainability claims, below are seven key things to look out for and questions to ask yourself when considering purchasing a ‘sustainable’ or ‘ethical’ product.
Beware of hidden trade-offs
When marketing a product as eco-friendly or ethical, companies can tend to only focus on certain elements of the materials used or how it was made — the ones which sound the best, without being transparent about the other important environmental or social issues involved. Essentially, they won’t always tell you the full story. These trade-offs also happen a lot between environmental and social sustainability issues. There might be a lot of focus on how green the product is but there will be little-to-no mention of the working conditions of the people in their supply chain, for example. It does not take away from the truth of what they are saying, but it is an attempt to distract consumers from the greater impacts of the product or company as a whole, and gives a misleading impression that they are more sustainable than they are.
Ask yourself, what else is going on here? Am I being told the full story or am I only being told the best bits? Don’t let one positive aspect allow you to overlook the bigger picture.
Is there any proof?
When companies use phrases like “sustainably made” or “eco-friendly” look for the figures that back it up. Any sustainability claim needs to be verified with proof, whether that is easily accessible supporting information, or reliable third-party certifications like Fair Trade or GOTS certified organic cotton. A company which is truly dedicated to sustainability will measure their impacts, verify their claims and publish detailed goals all backed up by science.
If you’re considering buying something marketed as “made from recycled post-consumer waste” and thinking that it all sounds great, but can they prove it? Why not send the brand an email or a message on social media and ask them straight up. If they can’t provide you with evidence then you’ll know they’re not worth shopping with.
Vague = suspicious
Vagueness is often used to cover up for a lack of proof. So if a company is making big broad claims or using a lot of vague language, you can be fairly certain their intention is to confuse or mislead their consumers. “All natural” is a good example of this. Arsenic, uranium, mercury, and formaldehyde are all naturally occurring… and also poisonous. When presented with a lofty statement like “all natural” ask yourself, what does that really mean? And look for the proof.
Look out for fake labels and certifications
When searching for that proof, make sure the labels and certifications presented by companies are genuine and trustworthy before believing them. Packaging will often feature bunny logos, leaf icons, images of fluffy white cotton or even just lots of greenery to suggest products are cruelty-free or eco-friendly when in fact they are not. Unfortunately anyone can simply make up a logo and print it on their product without having to get it certified by anyone else, which makes it really hard to know which ones to trust, but if in doubt do a little research online and find out if that label being used to sell sustainability is legit.
Is it relevant?
Another thing to be conscious of is if the information being presented to you is actually at all relevant to the sustainability of the product. Does it help you understand more about its environmental and social impacts, or is it unimportant and distracting?
The lesser of two evils
Products marketed as “vegan” are a good example of this greenwashing trick. In response to a rise in people adopting plant-based lifestyles, various brands (particularly those at the lower end of the high street) use the word “vegan” to promote products made from synthetic alternatives to leather and fur. They are presented as sustainable as they are not made from animals, but they are almost always derived from oil or other non-renewable resources which has big implications for the environment, and consequently the animals that inhabit it. Always check what the vegan alternative materials are made from — environmentally friendly options do exist, and ensure that the vegan stamp being applied to the products is authentic and not just a promotional tool.
Watch out for false claims/ outright lies!
This one pretty much speaks for itself, but unfortunately there are a lot of sustainability claims out there that are quite simply false. Hopefully with all the advice above, you’ll be well equipped to weed out the fibbers from the ones with genuine motives to make real change.
The bigger question
Despite everything explained above, one of the biggest and most important questions to ask yourself when considering making a ‘green’ purchase is: “Do I really need this?”
Even if the item that has caught your eye passes the full greenwashing checklist with flying colours, it is not a sustainable purchase if you don’t really need it, or you don’t reaaaaaally love it, or you don’t think you will keep it and wear it for a really long time. Just because something is ‘sustainable’ doesn’t mean it’s worth buying based on that factor alone, so before researching a company’s supply chain practices or what the fabric is made of, check in with yourself to be sure that this is an item you will get good use out of and will cherish for years to come. If it is then great! And well done, those kinds of items aren’t easy to come by! Don’t get me wrong, we all deserve to treat ourselves to things we don’t “need need”, but it is important to remember that sustainability also starts with us, and how we behave, and that the most sustainable clothes are the ones already in your wardrobe!
The silver lining
The rise in greenwashing is a sign that sustainability is finally on the majority of company’s radars. Whilst many are attempting to use it as a marketing tactic, there are lots of brands out there whose efforts are genuine, and founded on facts and a commitment to doing better. We shouldn’t put too much pressure on ourselves for every decision made to be 100% green, sustainability and sustainable living is an evolving journey and just by being aware of the issues you are already a more conscious consumer.
About the author
Elena is a sustainable business consultant and one of the co-founders of rho, an organic loungewear label. rho is a socially-driven, sustainability-conscious company that believes everyone deserves to have a safe night’s sleep. They donate £5 from every item sold to their partner charity Oasis domestic abuse service to support their incredible work. You can read more about rho and browse their loungewear here.
